How to Build a Remote Control Time Lapse Camera
It is possible to build a remote control that you can use with your camera; it can also be used to obtain a time lapse recording. The software that is used can be used for a variety of camera types including Nikon, Fuji, Canon, Pentax, Sony, Olympus or Minolta. There is no risk of damaging the camera since the housing will not ever be opened in order to construct a remote control. There are a few electrical parts needed, but you don’t need an Arduino. You will need some basic knowledge of how circuits and electrical projects work in order to complete this project. But it can be a very inexpensive, fun and useful DIY electrical project.
Parts Needed to Make the DIY Remote Control
You will have to obtain some standard electrical parts and components in order to construct the remote control. To build the device you will need:
· Breadboard
· A microcontroller (Attiny85)
· A regular LED, an IR Led
· 2 resistors
· Two push buttons
· Battery for power supply
If you want to increase the IR remote control’s range you can add a FET and operate the IR LEDs using a higher current.
Building the Schematic
The schematic only has two outputs and two inputs so it is relatively simple. You will want the resistor R1 to ensure that it is at 30 Ohm. This allows a 40mA current to flow through the two LEDs. You can use a smaller or larger resistor depending on the specific LED you are using for the project. If you do not want to use or do not have an IRLML2502 you can use other options. Just check the resistor to ensure that the current is below 20mA because that is the maximum current the microcontroller will be able to deliver. The controller will work without an R5 so it’s optional but if you want to include it you can. If you are inexperienced or do not want to reprogram the uC, you can just leave off the programming port. You will have to program the uC in the programmer first before plugging it in to the port.
You will also want to set up the schematic on the breadboard. It’s a good idea to try it all out on a solder-less breadboard to make sure that all the resistor settings are appropriate and to ensure it works properly before building it on the actual breadboard.
What about the software?
You will need to program the software in the Attiny85. Once you apply power to the device the status LED will flash two times and then wait. Then the user has a choice to press the time-lapse button to increase the interval of the time lapse. Each time you press the button, the interval will increase by 10 seconds. But it will never increase to above 60 seconds. This is because many of today’s cameras have an auto shutdown feature which engages if there is no interaction within 60 seconds. Each time the user presses the time lapse button it will be confirmed with a flash of the status LED. Then you can press the trigger release button to start the time lapse and at the end of each of the intervals the IR code will send the signal to trigger the activation of the shutter on the camera. You will know when the camera is in time lapse mode because the status LED will flash as many times as the button was pressed. While it is waiting to begin the LED will flash each second so that the user knows it’s in time lapse mode.
You also have the option of pressing the trigger release at any point. This will go ahead and send out the IR code. After the trigger release button is pushed the time lapse can no longer be adjusted. You’ll actually have to disconnect the battery or you can install a reset button if you want.
There are a few advantages to using a wire boot loader to program microcontrollers. For one, you will not need a full 6 or 8 pin programming interface and it will work very quickly. It can also be used for almost any pin for uC programming. You’ll also have more of the pins free to use for other functions.
Parts Needed to Make the DIY Remote Control
You will have to obtain some standard electrical parts and components in order to construct the remote control. To build the device you will need:
· Breadboard
· A microcontroller (Attiny85)
· A regular LED, an IR Led
· 2 resistors
· Two push buttons
· Battery for power supply
If you want to increase the IR remote control’s range you can add a FET and operate the IR LEDs using a higher current.
Building the Schematic
The schematic only has two outputs and two inputs so it is relatively simple. You will want the resistor R1 to ensure that it is at 30 Ohm. This allows a 40mA current to flow through the two LEDs. You can use a smaller or larger resistor depending on the specific LED you are using for the project. If you do not want to use or do not have an IRLML2502 you can use other options. Just check the resistor to ensure that the current is below 20mA because that is the maximum current the microcontroller will be able to deliver. The controller will work without an R5 so it’s optional but if you want to include it you can. If you are inexperienced or do not want to reprogram the uC, you can just leave off the programming port. You will have to program the uC in the programmer first before plugging it in to the port.
You will also want to set up the schematic on the breadboard. It’s a good idea to try it all out on a solder-less breadboard to make sure that all the resistor settings are appropriate and to ensure it works properly before building it on the actual breadboard.
What about the software?
You will need to program the software in the Attiny85. Once you apply power to the device the status LED will flash two times and then wait. Then the user has a choice to press the time-lapse button to increase the interval of the time lapse. Each time you press the button, the interval will increase by 10 seconds. But it will never increase to above 60 seconds. This is because many of today’s cameras have an auto shutdown feature which engages if there is no interaction within 60 seconds. Each time the user presses the time lapse button it will be confirmed with a flash of the status LED. Then you can press the trigger release button to start the time lapse and at the end of each of the intervals the IR code will send the signal to trigger the activation of the shutter on the camera. You will know when the camera is in time lapse mode because the status LED will flash as many times as the button was pressed. While it is waiting to begin the LED will flash each second so that the user knows it’s in time lapse mode.
You also have the option of pressing the trigger release at any point. This will go ahead and send out the IR code. After the trigger release button is pushed the time lapse can no longer be adjusted. You’ll actually have to disconnect the battery or you can install a reset button if you want.
There are a few advantages to using a wire boot loader to program microcontrollers. For one, you will not need a full 6 or 8 pin programming interface and it will work very quickly. It can also be used for almost any pin for uC programming. You’ll also have more of the pins free to use for other functions.